No block/pump number. BEB replacement - Thread with wide ranging good discussion on possible causes. 1HD-T replacement ACL bearings at 150,000kms minor pitting, 1HD-FTE over 200,000kms OEM look fine, 1HD-T 140,000kms ACL replacements with minor pitting. No block/pump number references: ACL rod bearings after 150k kms.
Can anyone explain the change is how the valves are adjusted on the 1HZ and 1HD-T vs the 1HD-FT? Is one easier than the other?
Before Euro 1, the predecessors of the 1HD-T had a full range of thermostats: 76-90, 82-95, 88-100. The 1HD-FT inherited from the 1HD-T this same single, unique "African" 76-90 thermostat. As a result of the measures described above, the 1HD-FT engine complied with the Euro 2 standard.
The 1HD-FTE and 1HD-FT engines were both backed by the H151F a stout gearbox by any comparison. My 100 series is a 5 speed manual and the 5th gear is perfectly matched for this engine (cruising speed of 60 to 70 MPH).
Guide to tuning your 1HD-T or 1HD-FT or VE rotary injection pump mudgudgeon
Guide to tuning your 1HD-T or 1HD-FT or VE rotary injection pump
My 1HD-FTE conversion was running great for the last year but I recently had to do battle with an exceptionally frustrating problem. Sometime in February, the truck developed a habit of just randomly shutting off while driving - not cool.
The 1HD-T is superior. 1HD-T has a factory turbo, direct injection, more power in stock form. There are issues with BEB's but that is fairly easily addressed. There is a lot more reliable power potential as a result of the direct injection system. 1HZ has no turbo and is indirect injection.